 The HDT Resource Guide + 2010 Rally Schedules & Information, Members Trucks and HDT Items that are Currently For Sale, See Page 2 |
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 Jul 3 2007, 03:22 PM
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#22
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 Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054 
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Page: 2 - Section: A
 Volvo VNL630, VNL670 & VNL780 Model Specific Information:  With the 2nd Generation Volvo VNL's becoming more affordable due to fleets trading up to newer models and OO's selling their trucks due to the poor economy several members have opted to purchase 2nd Generation VNL630's, VNL670's and VNL780's. Forum member Bill B "Bill" and myself (mostly Bill) are going to document some of the changes that should be of interest to future Volvo owners who are contemplating purchasing a 2nd generation VNL. If other owners of 2nd Generation VNL's would like to include additional information post it HERE and I'll add it to the Guide. ____________________________________________________________________________ - Noted Differences - BrakeSmart & MaxBrake Brake Controller Installations:  Owners of Generation II Volvo VNL's (late model 2003's and up) will need to install their BrakeSmart or MaxBrake pressure sensor that comes with your brake controller kits under the hood of your truck in lieu of behind the dashboard instrument cluster like the owners of Generation I VNL's have been doing as indicated on Page 1 Section D of The HDT Resource Guide. Here's the Link to a photo of the installation location under the hood on the firewall on 'Nuf Truck's "Cal" 2005 VNL630 and a Link to the thread where the location of the pressure sensor on a Generation II VNL should be installed. I will say that I agree with Bill B that running the air line from the Tee under the hood through the firewall into the area directly behind the instrument cluster seems to be a better location to install the pressure sensor versus under the hood like it is on Cal's 630 where it will be subject to high heat plus adverse weather conditions..... The remainder of the installation process for the BrakeSmart controller should be the same as outlined in the photo instructions below and even though I haven't installed a MaxBrake controller it should pretty much follow the same wiring guideline also.  On a Side Note: For our application you'll need the BrakeSmart 78001 Controller (works with any vehicle) and the 78010-5 Air Brake Harness which naturally IS ONLY used on truck's with air brakes and if you opt for a MaxBrake controller you'll need to purchase the "MXAIR1 = Air Brake System w/T Connectors" system. UPDATE: Bill B has installed a MaxBrake brake controller in his recently purchased VNL 630 and he sent me a Link to his installation photo's showing where he installed the pressure sensor that came with the controller.  As shown in the photo above, Bill opted to install the sensor under the dash near the steering wheel adjustment pedal in the cab rather than under the hood on the firewall which IMPO is a better location for the sensor. On a Side Note, be sure to read the Notes that Bill included under several of his photos plus you can read more details about his installation in this Thread.... Tail Light Conversion Process for Newer Volvo's: Commercial tractors and trailers are wired differently than fifth wheels and travel trailers. The brake and turn signals utilize two independent bulbs whereas 5th_Wheels and Travel Trailers use a single bulb with both the brake and turn signals displayed in a common bulb. Since the converters are self powered they also isolates the trailer light signals from the tow vehicle's electrical system therefore you don't have to worry about overloading or shorting out the tow vehicles OEM electrical system. On mid year 2004 and newer Volvo's you cannot use a Hoppy or Hidden Hitch tail light converter as the newer Volvo's utilize a computer that controls the lighting which causes a conflict with retail version tail light converters. The alternative to the current lineup of over the counter TLC's is to make your own "DIY" tail light converter that utilizes either three or four Bosch style relays. This can easily be achieved by following the process from one of the two DIY tail light converter drawings below that were designed by forum member fppf.  --Three Relay Version:  -- Four Relay Version: Like the Hoppy and Hidden Hitch self powered tail light converters, the DIY self powered three relay tail light converter shown above will isolate your 5th_Wheel's lighting from your trucks OEM electrical system which will eliminate any possibility of screwing up your trucks electrical system..... On the other hand, the four relay version shown above isn't self powered therefore I personally would shy away from the four relay version unless you want to risk the chance of screwing something up in your trucks electrical system.... NOTE: If you plan to pick up 12 Volt power from the center auxiliary pin in the OEM trailer electrical socket located behind the cab to feed power to a DIY powered TL converter Make Sure there is a 40 Amp fuse in - location B2 - which is marked "Trailer AUX" in the secondary fuse panel that is located directly behind a small panel under the drink holder on the dash. Access to the secondary fuse panel is achieved by removing two screws that are hidden directly behind the drink holder or within the drink holder itself..... For more details about Hoppy issues with a Generation II Volvo click on the following three links, #1, #2, and #3. ___________________________________________________________________________
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Aug 13 2008, 02:19 AM
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#24
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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Page: 2 - Section: C
 RV Shows: List of RV Shows in the US & Canada Florida "Tampa" RV Super Show Dates: Wednesday, January 14 - Sunday, January 18, 2009 High End and Customized 5th_Wheel Manufacturers: 1. Carriage / Royals International 2. New Horizon 3. Newmar 4. Doubletree RV Suites 5. NuWa 6. Excel Custom Built 5th_Wheel Manufacturers: 1. SpaceCraft 2. Travel Units Motor Coaches & Toter Home Conversions: 1. Show Hauler 2. Dynamax 3. Transport Designs 4. Kingsley Coach 5. Power House Coach 6. Factory Motorhomes 7. Twins Custom Coaches 8. Renegade/Kibbi LLC 9. Crew Chief 10. NRC Modifications 11. United Specialties 12. Haulmark Motorcoaches 13. Powerhouse Conversions 14. Cobra Motorhomes 15. Optima Motorhomes & Toterhomes 16. Wild Side Conversions Used RV Locator Web Sites: 1. RV Trader Online 2. RV Search 3. RV Online 4. PPL Motor Homes 5. Used Motor Home 6. RV Clearing House 7. eBay Motors 8. Racing Junk 9. Craigslist 10. Local Classified Ads 11. Cranky Ape - Repos/Salvaged 12. Truck Paper - use Nascar as the search word 13. Escapees RV's, Tow's and Toad's For Sale Forum Used RV Prices: 1. NADA Online Used 5th_Wheel and RV Inspections Services: If your considering purchasing a used 5th_Wheel that's located to far away for you to do an initial inspection yourself then here's a Link to Several Independent Inspection Services that deal solely in 5th_Wheel and RV Inspections. If you cannot locate an RV Inspection Service via the Internet where the 5th_Wheel or RV your interested in purchasing is located try contacting several campgrounds in the immediate area as one may be able to tell you the name of an Inspection Service or qualified RV Technician in the area that would be willing to inspect the 5th_Wheel or RV for a small fee. Worldwide RV Rental Facilities: 1. rvnetlinx.com This is a good source for locating all types of rental recreational vehicles and trailers worldwide. Rig Weights: Tips on How to Weigh Your Rig The Ongoing Saga of the Goodyear G614's: GY G614 Issues Upgrading From 16" Tires & Rims to 17.5" Tires & Rims: The information and link in This Post should shed some light on what's required to do the upgrade to 17.5" tires and rims on your 5th_Wheel. Replacement Tires: 1. Treadepot 2. Discount Tire 3. Les Schwab 4. Tire Kingdom Efficient 12 Volt Lighting?: Quite Possibly So LED Lighting DIY SatelLite Dish Mount: 3 Leg - 4 Leg PVC Dish Mount Parts & Repair Sources for Orphaned Travel Supreme & Teton Owners:
Dave spent 10 years as the Parts Manager at Travel Supreme then when they shut their doors he decided to opened his own parts company for original factory parts and accessories for Travel Supreme Coaches and is reported to stock or have access to most if not all Travel Supreme parts.
These are former Travel Supreme service guys that have formed their own service facility. We just had some work done there and there were quite a number of TS MH's there being serviced. They & their workers know the TS products & seemed very accommodating as they begin to build their new business.
RVT Services LLC is owned and operated by former Teton employees including Terry Harkins Teton's former General Manager, and Travis, their former Plant Manager. Rocky said that they are well pleased with the work that Terry, Travis and Dave did on our fiver. Dave also worked at Teton on plumbing. These guys knew what they were doing and it really showed.... If you are in need of repairs and can slide by Casper, their hourly rate is one of the lowest around, and they know your trailer, plus, they work on other model 5th_Wheel's and RV's beside Tetons! On a Side Note: If Terry doesn't answer the phone, the message on the answering machine may reference , "Harkins' Custom Kitchens & Baths", - a business of his which is located at the same location - so leave your 5th_Wheel or RV related information on the answering machine and Terry will get back with you about your 5th_Wheel or RV related questions. Independent RV Adjusters, Consultants & RV Recalls: RV Resolve is an independent RV Adjuster/Consultant company specializing in various RV related issues. In addition their Blog lists various RV Recalls and Industry News via links located on the left hand side of the page per individual dates of archives. ___________________________________________________________________________
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Aug 13 2008, 07:20 AM
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#25
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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Page: 2 - Section: D
 Honda Model Numbers: 1. EU1000i 2. EU2000i 3. EU2000i - Camouflage 4. EU2000iA Companion 5. EU3000is 6. EU3000 - Handi 7. EU6500is NOTE: The all new Honda EU2000iA Companion generator is the exactly like the older EU2000i version with the exception that it only has one 20 Amp 125 Volt non twist-lock & one 30 Amp 125 Volt twist-lock receptacle in lieu of the two 20 Amp 125 Volt non twist-lock receptacles like the EU2000i has. Yamaha Model Numbers: 1. EF1000iS 2. EF2000iS 3. EF2400iS 4. EF2800i 5. YG2800i 6. EF3000iSE & EF3000iSEB w/Boost 7. EF4500iSE 8. EF6300iSE Online Generator Dealers: 1. Wise Sales 2. Mayberry's 3. Alamia 4. Hayes Equipment 5. Speedway Sales 6. Steady Power 7. US Diesel Engines Generator Accessories: 1. Parallel Connection Kits 2. Other Generator Accessories #1 3. Other Generator Accessories #2 4. Aluminum Generator Boxes 5. ABS?/Plastic Generator Shelter Informative Links: 1. Honda Generator Manuals 2. Wattage Requirement Reference Guide #1 3. Wattage Requirement Reference Guide #2 4. Portable Generator Operation Guide 5. Generator Power Safety Guide Yamaha Bi-fuel & Tri-fuel Inverter Generators: US Carburetion Inc. is a Yamaha factory authorized alternative fuel conversion center that sells Yamaha generators that have been converted to Bi-fuel operation "propane/natural gas" and Tri-fuel operation "propane/natural gas/gasoline" Yamaha generators. Propane Generators.com offers both Yamaha and Honda Bi-fuel & Tri-fuel operation generator kits. BTW, they have the same mailing address as US Carburetion Inc. so unless they simply share the same building they are infact a sister companies with one offering kits for both Yamaha & Honda generators. On a Side Note: A 20 pound propane bottle holds about 4.1 gallons of LPG when full. An EU2000i burns 0.297 gallons of LPG per hour at full load, 0.206 gph at 3/4 load and 0.101 gph at 1/2 load. That means the run time per tank on propane should be about 13.8 hours at full load, 19.9 hours at 3/4 load and 40.5 hours at 1/2 load. DIY EU2000i Tri-Fuel Conversion: Link to a DIY TF conversion pdf download. Honda EU2000i Yahoo Forum: For those of you who own a EU2000i or two here's a Link to the EU2000i Discussion Group on Yahoo.com. The discussion group is a place for those with Honda EU2000i generator's to discuss features, tips, DIY and commercially available parallel box's, accessories and for getting the most out of these units - particularly for RV camping. Also, this May be of interest to some, but then again, maybe not. - Generator Talk [font="Georgia"] DIY Multi Purpose Parallel Connection Box: For the DIY'ers, here's the pictures w/construction details for the Multi Purpose Parallel Connection Box that I made.  4mm Shrouded Banana Plugs:  I've found two online sources that sell the 4mm Shrouded Banana Plugs that will accept a thick jacketed 12 gauge wire with a little tweaking. NOTE: In order for a thick jacketed 12 gauge wire to pass through the small hole on the rear of the threaded end caps you'll have to Carefully drill out the hole a little larger on the rear portion of the threaded caps but it's Doable if you Take Your Time. I also recommend that you Carefully Pry Out the Small Red Tips from yhe metal pieces that plug into the generator before you do your soldering or you'll More Than Likely Melt the Tips before you can get your connection hot enough to accept the solder.... The last time I checked the Banana Plugs were available at Mouser Electronics under part numbers "Black" #548-32603-0 & "Red" #548-32603-2 -OR- from MCM Electronics under part numbers "Black" #69-173 & "Red" #69-174. When I purchased my plugs Mouser Electric was a little more reasonable on their shipping charges but then again that was quite a while ago so be sure to compare S&H charges before placing an order with either source.... I'll add that it isn't necessary to use Red and Black Banana Plugs on your parallel connection box as either of the two plugs intended for a separate generator on the parallel box (no matter the color) can be plugged into either female receptacle on a Honda inverter generator without damaging the generator as the plugs are backward compatable. On a Side Note: If your not confident enough in your ability to make your own DIY Parallel Connection Box then I suggest you check out the parallel interconnect cable that eBay seller BigSkyPower is selling for around $120 with Free S&H which is much less than the OEM Honda Parallel Box sells for before S&H charges by online retailers. Honda Generator Replacement Parts: If your in need of replacement parts for your Honda generator and prefer using an online retailer I highly recommend using Plano Power located in Plano, TX - Phone: 972-423-5220. How to Get the Most Bang for your Buck from the Honda EU6500is: In a Long Running Thread pertaining to the Honda EU6500is as not being a particularly good investment for RV applications due to the fact that the generator puts out no where near the reported 6,500/5,500 watts = 120/240V 6500W max. (54.1/27.1Amps) or 5500W rated (45.8/22.9Amps.) which would cause problems trying to run one 15,000 BTU or two 13,500 BTU AC's simultaneously. Forum member RVnBikerBob-Bob and Becky "Bob" posted a work around on This Page of the thread that resorts to some trickery to put all the possible current (Amps) from the generator online with the use of a homemade Cheater Adapter that plugs into either 30 Amp twistlock re-ceptacle on the control panel.  With the use of the Cheater Adapter you should be able to operate two 13,500 BTU AC's simultaneously unless your camping at higher elevations as each 1,000 feet of elevation above sea level reduces a generators output by roughly 3% per 1,000 feet. For those who are electrically challenged, here's the wiring schematic I drew that should answer any questions you have about properly wiring the adapter.  If you still have questions about the workaround just Post Your Questions and someone will more than likely chime in to help you out. ____________________________________________________________________________
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Aug 13 2008, 07:42 AM
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#27
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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Page: 2 - Section: F
 Smart4Two Information: A. ClubSmartCar.ca's - Web Site which includes multiple Smart4Two forums. B. evilution.co.uk - Smart car technical site - Good resource site for Smart4Two owners. C. FQ101.co.uk - Taking Modification to the Next Level! The New 2008 Gen II Smart4Two: Pertinent information about the soon to be released 2008 Gen II U.S. version SF2 which will be approximately 8" longer than the Gen I Smart4Two's. A. Smart USA - The official Smart USA web site. B. Pre-release Photos - of the US version Smart4Two. C. US Road Tour Photos - Taken by one of many tour participants. Finally, the national enthusiasm is very visible on smart USA's official social networking website for enthusiasts around the country, www.smartusainsider.com. Over 6,800 members are actively blogging, posting photos and videos, and participating daily in exciting discussions about their smart experiences, personalization, product questions and more. If you have not yet visited smart USA Insider, we encourage you to meet and interact with the thousands of smart owners, reservation holders and enthusiasts like you that gather there daily to discuss all things smart. Gen II Smart4Two - Model 52 kW Specifications: Dimensions and Weights: Wheelbase = (mm) 1,867 (73.50 in) compared with the Gen I @ (1,812 mm) (71.34 in) Track width front = (mm) 1,283 (50.51 in) compared with the Gen I @ (1,275 mm) (50.20 in) Track width rear = ( mm) 1,385 (54.53 in) Length = (mm) 2,695 (106.10 in) compared with the Gen 1 which is (98.5 in) Width = (mm) 1,559 (61.38 in) compared with the Gen 1 which is (59.5 in) Height = (mm) 1,542 (60.71 in) compared with the Gen 1 which is (60.0 in) Turning circle = (m) 8.75 (28.71 ft) Weight without driver = (kg) 750 (1,653.47 lbs) (cabrio: 790) (1,741.65 lbs) Payload = (kg) 270 (595.25 lbs) (cabrio: 230) (507.06 lbs) Permissible total weight = (kg) 1,020 (2,248.72 lbs) Fuel tank capacity/reserve = (l) 33/5 (8.72 gal - US/1.32 gal - US) Performance: Maximum speed = (km/h) 145 (90.10 mph) NOTE: The remainder of the Gen 2 specs can be by seen by clicking on this Link. Optimizing the Ride Quality on a Gen II Smart4Two: If you're looking to improve the ride quality of your Gen II Smart4Two you might want to read several of the posts in this Thread that forum member NEO/Russ "Russ" made. Why Load & Unload Your Smart4Two from the Drivers Side?: From all indications thus far everyone that has posted photo's of their Smart4Two loading's and unloading's has chosen to do so from the drivers side of their HDT. Here's the Link to a thread discussing the reason's why everyone that we know of thus far has chosen to load and unload from the drivers side when they carry their Smart4Two's width wise on their conversions. Smart4Two Folding Loading Ramp Information: The heavy duty 10' arched aluminum folding ramps that Dennis M and Dick and Diana (two of the original Smart car toters) are using to load their Smart4Two's take care of clearance issues during the transition from the ramps to the trucks deck. The ramps were purchased several years ago @ DiscountRamps.com however they are now listed as a discontinued product.... The Big Boys Ramp Details: Model Number = MF-12014-2 = (The Big Boys) = Two 120" arched folding ramps Unfolded Length = 10' (120 in) Folded Length = 61 in Folded Thickness = 10 1/2 in Width = 14 in each Weight = 40 lbs. each Weight Capacity = 3,000 lbs total / 1,500 lbs each NOTE: Two newly designed replacement models for the original Big Boys ramp design are now available @ DiscountRamps.com. The Big Boy II Ramp Details: Model Number = MF2-12038 (The Big Boy II) = Two 120" arched folding ramps Unfolded Length = 10' (120 in) Folded Length = 60.5 in Folded Thickness = 7 1/2 in Width = 19 in each -or- 38" when combined Weight = 43 lbs. each x two - 96 lbs total Weight Capacity = 2,500 lbs total / 1,250 lbs each Price = $449.99 + $75.00 S&H - OR - Model Number = MF2-14438 (The Big Boy II) = Two 144" arched folding ramps Unfolded Length = 12' (144 in) Folded Length = 72 in Folded Thickness = 7 1/2 in Width = 19 in each -or- 38" when combined Weight = 54 lbs. each x two = 108 lbs total Weight Capacity = 2,000 lbs total / 1,000 lbs each Price = $569.99 + $100.00 S&H While both model #'s are listed as arched ramps these are actually Flat Ramps with a " 12 degree angle -or- offset " at the hinge that give the same functionality as an actual arched ramp....... Note: Forum member Billr "Bill" chose to go with The Big Boy II model # MF2-14438 ramps with a 2000 lb combined weight rating for his Smart4Two loading project as Discount Ramps felt the MF2-14438's were of adequate strength to handle the weight of his Canadian Smart4Two..... If you would like to use The Big Boy II 12' ramps but are concerned about their 2000 lb weight rating the addition of a modified heavy duty cog style jack stand placed under either hinge should rectify any concerns about overloading the 12' ramps.... Smart4Two Extendable Custom Made Loading Ramp Information: Here's a Link to a few Pics of forum member Too Much Truck's "Robert" custom made extendable loading ramps and the Link to a thread dicussing the ramps. The beauty of these ramps is that they are only 5' 6" long when collapsed and extend to approximatly 10' 6" long which would make storing them within a lockable bed compartment practicle rather than having ramps that must be carried underneath the car or in a large dedicated storage compartment as most Smart4Two owners are doing. Smart4Two Modular Drop Deck Loading Ramp Information: Forum member MakinSmoke "Virgil" is using the 15' 9" modular four ramp system listed below from DiscountRamps.com to load his Smart4Two. These are true car loading ramps that are completely flat "no hinges" that utilize a separate adjustable aluminum center support stand that interlocks the upper and lower sections together. Modular Ramp Details: Model Number = 04-18-189-01-01-M = Four 94.5" straight ramps w/adjustable ramp support Length = 4 ramps @ 94.5" each Width = 18" each Thickness = 2.25" each Weight - Ramps = 50 lbs. each pair x 2 = 100 lbs total Weight - Ramp Support = 52 lbs. x 1 Weight Capacity - Ramps = 8,000 lbs. total / 4,000 lbs. per axle Weight Capacity - Ramp Support = 8,000 lbs. total / 3,000 lbs. per axle Price = $1,399.99 + Freight Charge Smart4Two Winch Information: Dennis M and Dick & Diana use or originally used Mile Marker PE2500 winches with a line rating of 2,500 pounds to hoist their Smart4Two's up their loading ramps. Dennis M has since reported that his Mile Marker PE2500 lasted for a couple years before petering out and has since upgraded to a Smittybilt XRC-8 winch with a line rating of 8,000 pounds that he purchased online from Winch Depot. Smart4Two Tie Down Information: Dennis M uses custom made wheel bonnets designed for his specific tie sizes that were purchased online at Susquehanna Motorsports as tie downs for his Smart4Two. Smart4Two Insurance Information: To Quote Dennis M: Our smart car insurance is through Farmers. My agent said "If you can license it we can insure it" I have 500/500/100 with a $500 deductible. Cost is $367.70 for six months comparable to my BMW my "now sold" Dodge Ram. I do get some discount since they carry all of my insurance on the cars, Bud, the trailer, and the house. I also have it classified for pleasure use, less than 5,000 miles per year. Interestingly the paper work has the correct serial number but calls the model "220 C/230 C". To Quote Dick and Diana: Our insurance is through Hartford, and for 1 year with multiple car discount including 1 other car) is $530.00 per year. Geico quoted about $1000.00, which is Ridiculous in comparison. Gen I & Gen II Smart4Two Visual Length Comparison Photos: Here's a Link to a few Pics that compare the length of the two Smarts and the Link to a thread dicusiing the comparisons. Gen I Smart4Two's Loaded on Toter Pics: Since many of us have aspirations about purchasing a Smart4Two to haul on our conversions I thought I'd include a few links to pictures of members Gen I Smart4Two's loaded on their HDT's and a vodeo of Red Dog's being loaded on his deck. 1. Dick & Diana/Class of '06's Gen I Smart4Two loaded on their T2000 - Link 2. Dennis M's Smart4Two loaded on his VNL610 - Link 3. Toterman's Smart4Two loaded on his VNL610 - Link #1 - Link #2 4. Red Dog's Smart4Two loaded on his T2000 - Link which includes a Link to a video of his Smart4Two loading procedure. 5. Billr's Canadian Smart4Two loaded on his VNL770 - Link plus a Link to loading photos and another Link to a thread where Bill posted before and after truck weights after his project was completed. Gen II Smart4Two Loaded on a Slant Details & Pics: Here are few Pics of member Robb's "Robb" Gen II Smart4Two loaded cross wise on an incline due to its length (reportedly 105 3/4" long) on his VNL610 which enables the Smart to be within the 102" width guidelines when loaded which is mandated by federal highway regulations. Any vehicle that measures more than 102" wide requires an over width permit therefore this is the only legal way to transport a Gen II Smart4Two width wise on a Toter bed..... Bed, Ramp & Tie Down Details: Robb states that his bed is 8' wide, that the ramp is 30" high which is required to meet the 102" federal highway width requirement and that he uses 9' detachable ramps to load his Smart. The ramps are loaded securely under the car for transport with chains and locks to keep them from walking away. He utilizes straps and large eyes on the fixed ramp under the rear wheels to strap the car down which binds it down as it pulls up on the rear tires. For additional safety he also has a chain that runs through both sides of the Smarts frame then through an eye on the back of the ramp box where he has a chain binder with lock. 
Copy_of_TRUCKBED049.jpg ( 51.39K )
Number of downloads: 89
Copy_of_TRUCKBED052.jpg ( 49.7K )
Number of downloads: 73Gen II Smart4Two Loaded Lengthwise Details & Pics: Here's a Link to a thread discussing sdixon747's "Steve" Gen II Smart4Two which is loaded lengthwise on his deck and another Link to Steve's photo gallery showing additional pics of his Smart. You'll also notice that Steve's ramps are custom made with integrated center supports... ____________________________________________________________________________
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Aug 13 2008, 07:44 AM
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#28
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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Page: 2 - Section: G
 For those of you who don't want a Smart4Two or a traditional motorcycle due to physical limitations this might be a good alternative for everyday local driving as many people don't want to use their toter as their primary means of transportation when they are not on the road. One thing to remember is that Many of these trikes are more than 102 inches long therefore if you want to load a trike "across" the deck of your toter be sure to verify the length of the trike your interested in before finalizing your purchase...... Here's a Link to a thread about trikes where members are discussing how to load a trike on their toter. Bud & Jan Redmond's Trike Page List of Trike Manufacturers:
Custom Built Trike Loader Video: If you have thoughts of transporting a trike on your conversion you might be interested in this trike loader that was built for Jim Cox's Volvo VNL610 by Herrin Hauler in Kilgore, TX. Here's the Link to a video of the loader unloading Jim's trike and a Link to the trike being re-loaded on his truck. The loader was designed to load and unload a trike or Smart4Two from Jim's Volvo but from all indications even the Generation I Smart4Two at 98" long would be "Very Close In Length?" when loaded to exceeding the 102" maximum permissible vehicle width set forth by federal transportation guidelines. BTW, the two small wheels on the rear of loader are removable for transport....... ____________________________________________________________________________
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Aug 13 2008, 07:56 AM
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#29
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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Page: 2 - Section: H
 ____________________________________________________________________________ .......... You do not have to own an HDT to attend an HDT Rally .......... ____________________________________________________________________________ 7th Annual (2010) National HDT Rally: The Official National HDT Rally Information Website What is the National HDT Rally? The National HDT rally is the event for information and education on using, maintaining, procuring, and configuring a class 7 or class 8 Tractor as a 5th Wheel RV toter. This year's National HDT Rally has been booked for October 10th (2010) through October 16th (2010) at the Kansas State Fairgrounds in Hutchinson, Kansas which is the same location as last year's national rally. If you have further questions about the rally before I post additional information in this post you can post your questions in the Official 2010 National HDT Rally Thread through the link above or PM - Still Working "Larry" - and he will try to answer any questions that you have concerning the rally. And last but not least, below is the eMail address for the 2010 HDT Rally Registration Requests. Send eMails to: Rally Registration Requests with 2010 HDT Rally Registration Requests in the Subject Line of your eMail. |
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Aug 13 2008, 07:58 AM
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#30
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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Page: 2 - Section: I
 Photos from Various 2009 HDT Rallies: 2009 East Coast Rally: ~ May 13th - May 17th in Catawissa, PA Here's The Link to the Official 2009 East Coast Rally thread. Rally Photos: 1. Toterman's (David) Photos - Link #1 2. sdixon747's (Steve) Photos - Link #1 Photos from Various 2008 HDT Rallies: 5th Annual "2008" National HDT Rally: ~ Oct 4th - Oct 11th in Hutchinson, KS  Here's The Link to the Official 5th Annual HDT Rally Thread. Here's The Link to the Official 5th Annual HDT Rally Web Site. Rally Photos: 1. Still Working's (Larry) Photos - Link #1 2. Toterman's (David) Photos - Link #1, Link #2, Link #3 3. Hogrydr's (Jim) Photos - Link #1 4. kdet's (Kathy) Photos - Link #1 5. hjsdds's (Henry) Photos - Link #1 6. Mark & Dale Bruss (Mark) Photos - Link #1, Link #2, Link #3 Hutchinson Car Show Photos: 1. Brianwl's (Brian) Photos - Link #1 2. kdet's (Kathy) Photos - Link #1 Rally Entertainment Videos: 1. The Boulevard Band Video - Link #1 Rally Seminar Videos: 1. 3GStore EvDO Setup Video = Properly setting up an EvDO router after initial configuration - Link #1 3rd Annual "2008" Northwest Rally: ~ June 27th - July 4th/5th In Winchester Bay, OR Here's The Link to the Official 3rd Annual Northwest Rally Thread. 1. Vela1's (Scott) Photos - Link #1 Photos from Various 2007 HDT Rallies: 4th Annual "2007" National HDT Rally: ~ Sept 30th - Oct 6th in Wichita, KS  Here's The Link to the Official 4th Annual HDT Rally Thread. 1. Toterman's (David) Photos - Link #1, Link #2 and Link #3 2. Padraic's (Padraic) Photos - Link #1 and Link #2 3. Still Working's (Larry) Photos - Link #1 4. Mark & Dale Bruss (Mark) Photos - Link #1, Link #2, Link #3 3rd Annual "2007" East Coast Rally: ~ June 9th - 16th in Gettysburg, PA Here's The Link to the Official 3rd Annual East Coast Rally Thread. 1. Toterman's (David) Photos - Link #1 2nd Annual "2007" Northwest Rally: ~ June 22nd - ?? in Winchester Bay, OR Here's The Link to the Official 2nd Annual Northwest Rally Thread. 1. Vela1's (Scott) Photos - Link #1 Photos from Various 2006 HDT Rallies: 3rd Annual "2006" National HDT Rally: ~ October 1st - 7th in Wichita, KS  Here's The Link to the Official 3rd Annual HDT Rally Thread. 1. Mark and Dale Bruss's Photos - Link #1 2. Toterman's (David) Photos - Link #1, Link #2 and Link #3 3. Still Working's (Larry) Photos - Link #1 4. DIYGuy's (Mark) Photos - Link #1 5. Ann N Gene's (Gene) Photos - Link #1 6. Tetoner's (Mike) Photos - Link #1 and Link #2 7. HDT Forum Members Photos with their Trucks and Screen Names - Link #1 2nd Annual "2006" East Coast Rally: ~ June 3rd - 10th in Myrtle Beach, SC 1. 5th_Wheeler's (Jon) Photos - Link #1 2. Toterman's (David) Photos - Link #1 1st Annual "2006" Northwest Rally: ~ June 23rd - 26th in Winchester Bay, OR 1. OLDPhoneman's (Dave) Photos - Link #1 and Link #2 Photos from Various 2005 HDT Rallies: 2nd Annual "2005" National HDT Rally: ~ October 1st - 7th in Wichita, KS  1. rverdlm123's (Dave) Photos - Link #1 and Link #2 2. Ann N Gene's (Gene) Photos - Link #1 3. Tetoner's (Mike) Photos - Link #1 and Link #2 4. Toterman's (David) Photos - Link #1, Link #2, Link #3 and Link #4 ____________________________________________________________________________
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Aug 13 2008, 08:05 AM
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#31
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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Page: 2 - Section: J
 ~Trucks are in the Order They Were Posted in This Thread~ _______________________________________ Themisfitking's "Charlie" Volvo VNL630  John (C-IL)'s "John" Freightliner 120  5th_Wheeler's "Jon" Volvo VNL770  Toterman's "David" Volvo VNL420  Toterman's "David" Volvo VNL610  Oldphoneman's "Dave" Volvo VNL610  Smokeyjoe's "Smokey" Peterbilt 385  Mad-Dog's "Bryan" Peterbilt 379  Ann N Gene's "Gene" Peterbilt 387 - SOLD  bearman's "Dwight" Volvo VNL660  Hogrydr's "Jim" Volvo VNL610  Mark & Dale Bruss's "Mark" Volvo VNL770  bjarm's "Bruce" Volvo VNL610  ghillie's "John" Freightliner Columbia  DJW's "Dennis" Volvo VNL770  horsecampers "Greg" Volvo VNL610  RW "Ron" Freightliner 112  Scubadave's "Dave" Volvo VNL610  2BTRVLN's "Charlie" Volvo VNL770  Still Working's "Larry" Volvo VNL610  Dave K's "Dave" Volvo WIA  hipurr72's "Jim" Volvo VNL610  LarryandLinda's "Larry" Kenworth T2000  Jim Cox's "Jim" Volvo VNL610  Tetoner's "Mike" Volvo VNL770  Dwayne & Danette's "Dwayne" Kenworth T600  JRoger's "Roger" Volvo VNL610  wushaw's Peterbilt 385  RV-Pakker's Volvo VNL660  Broncitis's Volvo VNL610  racegirl04's Volvo WIA  Buzzcut's "Dave" Volvo VNL610 - SOLD  Crazybanshee's "Doug" International 9200  Seamo's "Bob" Volvo VNL660  RB70D's Peterbilt 385  Lodgepole's "Ron" Peterbilt 387  hjsdds's "Henry" Volvo VNL770  Dirt's "Doug" International Eagle  Reluyog's "Damian" Kenworth W900  DBIGRED's "Dennis" Kenworth T2000  mechmagcn's "Jeff" Mack R600  tvmotorsports's "Terry" Kenworth T2000  crewcab96's "Roger" Volvo WIA  crunchy's Volvo WIA42T  Bill&Mary's "Bill" Volvo WIA  ____________________________________________________________________________
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Aug 17 2008, 06:41 AM
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#32
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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Page: 2 - Section K
 LLonearth's "Larry" Volvo VNL660  'Nuf Truck's "Cal" Volvo VNL630  Bill & Val's "Bill" Volvo VNL610  Quinn The Eskimo's "Gail" Volvo VNL610  Maltruck's "Jim" Volvo VNL660  Jamie's "Jamie" Freightliner Century  Wrknrvr's "Vern" Volvo VNL610  rverdlm's "Dave" Kenworth T2000  Just Enough's "Robert" Volvo VNL770  ibTALLwalt's "Walt" International 9200i  HD_RIDER's "Jess" Volvo VNL610  Dennis M's "Dennis" Volvo VNL610  PSD_Tweaker's "Rick" Volvo VNL610  Chris Hick's "Chris" Volvo VNL610  Evileye's Kenworth T2000  Weekend Warrier's "Jeff" Freightliner Century  Chads Volvo VNL610  norian's "Mark" Volvo VNL610  JUGGERNAUT's Volvo VNL610  RVReady's "Mike" Volvo VNL660  Hdonlybob's "Bob" Volvo VNL610  Billr's "Bill" Volvo VNL770  Judd777's Peterbilt 379  Jeff- C IL's "Jeff" Volvo WIA     ____________________________________________________________________________
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Aug 17 2008, 06:42 AM
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#33
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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Page: 2 - Section: L
 1. General Appearance:a. Look for puddles on ground - oil - water that is apparently coming from the truck. b. Look for dripping fluids on underside of engine and transmission. c. Inspect hoses for condition and leaks. 2. Check Oil Level:a. Engine oil dipstick - oil in safe range above refill mark. 3. Coolant Level:a. Inspect reservoir - check proper level for engine condition (hot - cold). 4. Power Steering Fluid:a. Check power steering fluid dipstick - fluid above refill mark. 5. Engine Compartment Belts:a. Up to ¾ inch of play at center of belt (2 serpentine belts on Volvo 425 eng.)
1. Steering Box/Hoses:a. Check for secure mounting and no leaks. Look for missing nuts, bolts, and cotter keys. 2. Steering Linkage:a. Check all links, arms, and rods from the steering box to the wheel are not worn or cracked and that joints and sockets are not worn beyond limits or loose and no missing nuts, bolts, or cotter keys. 3. Springs/Air/Torque:a. Look for missing, shifted, cracked, or broken leaf or coil springs. b. Check tension bars, torque arms, any other parts of suspension are not damaged and are mounted securely. c. Air ride should be checked for damage or leaks. 4. Mounts:a. Check for cracked or broken hangers, missing or damaged bushings, broken or missing bolts, u-bolts, or other axle mounting parts. 5. Shock Absorbers:a. Check for security and no leaks. 6. Slack Adjusters:a. Check for broke, loose, or missing parts. The angle between the push rod and adjuster arm should be a little over 90 degrees when the brakes are released and not less than 90 degrees when brakes are applied. When adjuster pulled by hand with brakes released, they should not move more than one inch (1"). 7. Brake Chambers: a. Make sure not leaking, cracked, or dented, and are mounted securely. 8. Brake Hoses and Lines:a. Check for cracked, worn, leaking hoses, lines and couplings. 9. Brake Lining:a. Check for an adequate amount of brake shoe is remaining. 10. Rims:a. Check for damaged or bent rims - no welding on rims! 11. Tires:a. Tread depth minimum on steer tires - 4/32 minimum on all others 2/32. b. Check tire condition - wear - damage, valve stems and caps are not missing, broken, or damaged. c. Tire inflation - with gauge. 12. Hub Oil Seals/Axle Seals:a. Check for leaks and oil level in hubs and behind wheels for leaks. 13. Lug Nuts:a. Check that all nuts are in place, free of cracks and are not distorted or loose (no rust trails or shiny threads). Make sure bolt holes are not cracked or distorted. 14. Spacers:a. If equipped - check for damage and that they are in-place, and wheels are evenly separated. 15. Doors/Mirrors:a. Check for proper operation and that seals and hinges are in-tack and mirror and doors are adjusted properly. 16. Fuel Tank:a. Check for security and that caps are in-place and that tanks or lines are not leaking. 17. Battery Box:a. Check that all batteries are secure, connections are tight with no corrosion and cell caps are in place. b. Make sure cover or door is secure. 18. Drive Shaft:a. Check that drive shaft is not bent, loose, or cracked and that u-joints are secure and no foreign objects. 19. Exhaust System:a. Check for security, damage and signs of leaking, such as rust or carbon soot. 20. Frame:a. Check for cracks, broken welds, holes, or other damage to longitudinal frame members, cross members, and floor.
1. Splash Guards/Mud Flaps:a. Check for damage and mounting security. 2. Doors/Hitch/Lights/Secure Items:a. Check that bed doors are latched and secure. b. Check hitch for operation and security, and release arm is in proper position for current hitch requirement. c. Make sure lights are not damaged and proper color for position, red rear, amber elsewhere. d. Check any items on bed for security – lift, rails, hoist, etc. e. Look in fifth wheel gap and check that jaws are fully closed on king pin. If it has trailer safety chains they are attached and secure. f. If RV or trailer is hooked up, make sure deck area is clear for swing, and landing gear is up and tow is secure.
1. Air and Electric Lines:a. Listen for leaks. b. Check that air hoses and electric lines are not cut or damaged (steel braid should not show). c. Make sure air and electric lines are not tangled, pinched, or rubbing against tractor parts. 2. Catwalk:a. Check for security and clear of objects. 3. Mounting Bolts:a. Look for loose or missing mounting bolts, brackets, clamps, or nuts. Include pindle hooks, receiver hitch, etc.
1. Clutch/Gearshift/Parking Brake:a. Depress clutch. b. Place gear shift in neutral. c. Make sure truck chocked or parking brakes applied. d. Start engine and release clutch slowly. 2. Oil Pressure Gauge:a. Check for normal oil pressure (gauges working). b. Oil temperature gauge should show a slow increase in temperature to normal operating range. 3. Temperature Gauge (Water):a. Make sure gauge is working. b. Temp should begin to rise to normal operation range. 4. Volt/Ammeter:a. Check info cluster for normal battery voltage (charging 13-14.2 volts) and light off. 5. Mirrors and Windshield:a. Should be adjusted and clean. 6. Steering Play:a. Check play should not exceed 10 degrees (two inches on 20" wheel). 7. Windshield Washer:a. Check that wiper blades are secure and operate properly. No damage, and washer fluid is adequate for trip. 8. In Cab Light Indicators:a. Test all dash lights and indicators work when corresponding lights are turned on. (1) Left and right turn signal (2) 4-way flashers (emergency) (3) High beams 9. Horns:a. Check that city and highway horns are working. 10. Heater/Defroster:a. Test that heater and defroster are working properly. 11. Parking Brake Check:a. While parking brake only set, engage vehicle in lower gear, gently pull against brake to assure it will hold. 12. Safety Belts:a. Check for security and that all required adjust, and latch properly. 13. Lights and Reflectors:a. Check that all external lights and reflectors are clean and functional. (1) Clearance lights (red on rear, amber elsewhere) (2) Headlights (high and low beam) (3) Tail Lights (4) Turn signals (5) 4-way flashers (6) Brake lights (7) Reflectors (red on rear, amber elsewhere) (8) Working lights 14. Air Brake Check:a. With engine running, build air pressure to governed cut-out (100-125 psi). SHUT ENGINE OFF. Assure wheels are chocked. (1) Release tractor protection valve (parking brake). Push in, and fully apply foot brake for one minute. Check to see if air pressure drops more than three pounds in one minute (for single vehicle). If second vehicle is air brake equipped, you have a four pound max decrease in air pressure in one minute. (2) If above test meets requirements begin fanning off air pressure by rapidly applying and releasing the foot brake. Low air warning devices (buzzer, light, flag) should activate before air pressure drops below 60 psi. (3) Continue to fan off the air pressure and at approximately 40 psi the protection valve (parking brake) should engage (pop out).
15. Safety Equipment/Emergency:a. Make sure truck is equipped with spare fuses and bulbs. b. Check for three red reflector triangles are on board. c. Check for at least one properly rated and charged fire extinguisher. 16. See Trailer - RV Checklist.
INSPECTION NOTES: ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ Compliments of Hogrydr "Jim" ____________________________________________________________________________
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Aug 17 2008, 01:52 PM
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#34
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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Page: 2 - Section: M
1. If local sewer connection used go to holding tanks check list. 2. Furnace/air conditioner thermostat off. 3. Refrigerator off (unless it will be used with LP gas while traveling. 4. Refrigerator and freezer doors shut and locked. 5. All doors shut and secure including the closet and bedroom sliding door. 6. TV antenna retracted and points aligned. 7. All vents closed (4). And adjust side vents in garage as needed. 8. Stow all loose gear. Including Loft, Ladder and GARAGE. 9. Water pump off. 10. Windows closed. 11. Cabinet doors and drawers closed. 12. Slide check for obstacles inside and out, living room and bedroom, on floor and roof. 13. Retract slide with door, vent, or window open for air flow. 14. Close the above opening. 15. Perform walk through and secure any loose objects or furniture.
1. Tire covers and any equipment covers removed and stowed. 2. Outdoor rugs and mat stowed. 3. Any camping gear in campsite retrieved and stowed. 4. All water heater electrical switches off. 5. LP gas tank valves off.(Unless running refrigerator while traveling). 6. Awning stowed and locked and anchor equipment and rod stowed. 7. Shore power cord and equipment stowed. OR generator off. 8. Fill fresh water tank with 10-15 gallons of water. 9. Stow fresh water hose regulator and filter equipment. 10. FW doors and tailgate locked and STEPS RETRACTED. 11. Check campsite for items on tables, clotheslines, etc. 12. Perform walk around inspection (check tires for proper pressure, lug nut torque on FW and truck, maneuvering clearance, hitch, steps and other hazards.
1. Check tire inflation and lug nuts tight on TRUCK and FW. 2. Connect FW battery. 3. Preflight TRUCK, FW, and HITCH bolts and connectors. 4. Adjust tow vehicle mirrors. 5. Check FORWARD STORAGE DOOR is closed and locked before backing truck. 6. Retract REAR STABILIZERS. 7. Dump air bags truck and hitch,Adjust Kingpin Height using landing gear to proper hitch height of truck.. 8. Approach hitching position. 9. OPEN HITCHING BAR. 10. Slowly back Tow Vehicle into Kingpin making sure Hitch auto locks. 11. Visually check KINGPIN LOCK BAR IS LOCKED ,eight oclock position on hitch bar.. 12. Connect Electrical cord and Breakaway cable. 13. Verify all lights are operable. 14. Pull forward with truck to make sure Kingpin is locked to hitch. 15. Check that trailer brakes are adjusted and the proper brake controller lights are illuminated. 16. Set parking brake. 17. RETRACT LANDING GEAR 18. Remove chocks and wheel vise (2) and stow. 19. Check and close all storage doors and lock. 20. Walk around both vehicles to inspect and VERIFY THAT THE LANDING GEAR, TAILGATES - (if applicable), STABILIZERS AND STEPS ARE UP prior to driving..
1. If at camp site with sewer hooked up ( Rubber Gloves).a. Clean toilet bowl and sinks. Flush and rinse well irrigating Black and Grey water tanks. b. Open Black Water Valve and empty tank then open Grey Water Valve 1 and empty tank then open Grey Water Valve 2 and empty tank. c. Connect fresh water flush with sewer clean up hose and flush tank until water clears at sewer drain. d. Close Valves (Black and both Grey Water) and charge the tanks with deodorant and 2-3 gallons of water. (use ice cubes if sludge build up) e. Don't forget to turn off water pump!!! f. Stow all hoses and equipment used. 2. If you go to dump station. Clean toilet and sinks before leaving camp site. (Rubber Gloves)a. Upon arrival get the required equipment out (sewer hose and sewer water hose for flush) b. Remove campground drain cap and attach FW sewer hose to FW and drain. c. FOLLOW THE PROCEDURES OUTLINED ABOVE......in item 1 beginning with b. d. MAKE SURE STEPS ARE UP AND DOORS ARE CLOSED AND LOCKED before driving. INSPECTION NOTES: ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ Compliments of Hogrydr "Jim" ____________________________________________________________________________
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Sep 23 2008, 03:47 PM
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#35
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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Page: 2 - Section N
 1. Never backup rig without safety observer with radio or standard hand signals. 2. At check in, decide where site is, how to get to it, and whether the Bikes need to be unloaded before parking in site. 3. At site do a walk around to check for obstructions and plan where FW needs to be with respect to hookups and slide operation. Confer with safety guard on plan before backing. 4. Pull or back into site with FW positioned correctly for hookups, slide, and tailgate. 5. Level side to side using Spirit Level and appropriate planks and blocks then set truck brakes, and put in park. 6. Chock wheels and install both vise chocks. 7. Lower landing gear(make sure pins are engaged) raising FW 1/8 inch off hitch. 8. Disconnect Electrical lead and breakaway cable from truck. 9. Dump Air Bag truck & Hitch. 10. Verify Landing gear is down, electrical, and breakaway cables are disconnected and tailgate is down "if applicable". 11. Remove safety pin. Pull out Hitch handle till unlocked and stays in the unlocked position. 12. Carefully drive out from under FW. 13. Set Parking brake clear of FW. 14. Level FW fore and aft using Spirit Level and landing gear to raise or lower, or auto level. 15. Extend STABILIZERS. 16. Disconnect battery landing gear lead to de-activate landing gear switch. 17. Lower FW steps and unlock doors. 18 Turn on Propane at tank and allow 5 minutes before lighting gas appliances. 19. Connect to shore power using surge protector/ safety lights. Follow procedure 2min16sec. 20. Hookup water pressure regulator and filters to FW. 21. Use rubber gloves and connect sewer connection to campground inlet and arrange so will drain properly with supports. 22. Confirm hot water tank has filled before turning power on (two switches) or LP switch by sink (DSI) if LP is used. 23. Open vent, door, or window and check for obstructions inside and outside prior to extending slide. 24. Extend awning if appropriate anchor and place rugs and mat in place 25. Unload chairs and other camping gear as needed. 26. Plug in voltmeter and verify in green before starting air conditioner or turning on furnace. 27. Turn on the refrigerator and set in auto or LP if no electricity. 28. Leave water pump off unless not connected to city water.
1. Remove food and any garbage or trash left from trip. 2. Open refrigerator door and cabinets for ventilation. 3. Place lock on Kingpin. 4. Disconnect battery. Check for correct water level and charge level. 5. Verify LP is off and remove empty tanks to be filled. 6. Lock all storage and main doors. 7. Remove or lock FW hitch in truck. 8. Put on covers (tires, AC, TrailerSaver, etc.) 9. Make list of anything to be repaired or obtained before the next trip. 10. Get things on list completed.
INSPECTION NOTES: ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ Compliments of Hogrydr "Jim" ____________________________________________________________________________
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Sep 23 2008, 03:47 PM
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#36
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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Page: 2 - Section: O
 How to Add a Custom Avatar to Your Profile: 1. First, you must have the picture stored on your computer somewhere. 2. At the top of any web site page n the right side Click on the "My Controls Tab". 3. At the left, under "Personal Profile" on the next screen Click on "Edit Avatar Settings" on the left side of the page. 4. In the "Upload a new image from your computer space" Click on the "Browse Tab" and navigate to the picture that's stored on your computer "Generally Under the My Pictures Folder" in your Documents Folders. 5. "Hightlight" or Click on the picture you choose as your Avatar and then Click on the "Open Tab". 6. The last step is to Click on the "Update Avatar Tab". That's it...... How to Include Pictures From WebShots.com in Your Posts: WebShots.com has recently added a function that enables you to copy and paste a special URL WebShots generates into the thread your responding to. By doing so forum members can automatically see pictures up to 600 pixels in your post. If you want to post a picture from your WebShot's account that's larger than a thumbnail picture follow these simple instructions. 1. Clink on the thumbnail of the picture you want to post in a thread. 2. As soon as the enlarged picture has loaded double click on the enlarged picture. 3. On the page that pops up you'll see a pop up box with several options listed = "CLICK ON LINK TO IT". --- on the next pop up screen you'll see several small squares/blocks with one of the following numbers next to a particular square. --- 100, 200, 425, 500 & 600 --- These numbers depict the size picture you want to post in a thread. 4. Click on the size picture you want in your post = IE 100, 425 or 600 and WebShot's software will automatically generate a URL for that size picture that you can post in a thread. 5. As soon as WebShot's generates the URL you'll see "three" URL's located in three separate rectangular blocks on the right side of the page. --- Now look at the bottom/last of the three blocks that says = "POST IN A FORUM". --- This is the URL you want to use in your post. 6. Now just copy that particular URL then paste it directly into the ( BODY ) of the post you're making a comment in. That's it... How to Include Pictures From Picturetrail.com in Your Posts: 1. Right Click on the picture that is Enlarged in Picturetrail that you want to post in a thread. 2. Scroll down to where it says Properties at the bottom of the Pop Up Window and Click on Properties. 3. On the window that Pops Up copy the Address/URL that's shown in that window. 4. On Escapees.com Click on the Post Reply box in the thread you want to post the picture in. 5. Above where you normally type your message in a specific thread there is a String of Small Boxes and the Next to the Last One has what looks like a Small Picture. 6. Click on the Box with the Small Picture and on the pop up window Paste the URL you copied from Picturetrail. 7. Now click on the small OK Tab on that same pop up box. 8. Then click on Post Now like you normally would when your ready to post a reply in a thread. That's it...... How to Get the Correct Time Stamp on Your Posts: 1.Click on - My Controls - in the long thin space where you see your Screen Name/Log In/Log Out information near the top of every forum web page. 2.Click on the words - Board Settings - on the left side of the next page that opens up. 3.Now make sure you have a Check Mark where it says - Is Daylight Saving Time in Effect? - on the next page that opens up in your controll panel board setting page. 4. If not you'll be off an hour on your Posting Stamp Times on every post you make if your current location observes Daylight Saving Time. That's it...... How to View Posts in a Larger Font Size: You can increase the size of the standard forum font size by 20% quite easily. 1. Go to the Very Bottom of any forum web page. 2. Click on the small Drop Down Box in the Very Left Hand Corner of the page. 3. Select Escapees Large Font from the available choices within the box and the forum software will automatically increase your viewing font size by 20%. That's it.... On a Side Note: You can also choose from three available web site color/layout choices within the same small box you used to increase the font size. An Alternative Search Function for the Forum: This information was posted by member RIF in this Thread. I have just about given up on the built in search on the forum. Instead I use Google to do the searching. All you need to search a specific web site is add the word " site ", and a colon " : " and then the URL. For example, to search for manufacturers that are out of business on RVNETWORK.COM I entered "manufacturers out of business site:rvnetwork.com" in the Google search area. It gave me the post you were looking for at the top of the list. Here's the Example: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=...amp;btnG=Search - OR - Manufacturers out of business site:rvnetwork.com ___________________________________________________________________________
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Sep 23 2008, 03:50 PM
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#37
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Major Contributor Posts: 2,017 Joined: 14-November 04 From: For Now, This Place I Call Hell SKP#: 92054
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NOTE:
Please do not POST or Try to POST anything in This Thread as Mark, Kellie and Myself are the only ones who are authorized to post anything in The HDT Resource Guide.... Any questions or new information that you would like to see added to The HDT Resource Guide should be posted in The HDT Resource Guide Additions & Questions sticky thread - NOT in The HDT Resource Guide itself.... Thanks for your cooperation, Jon - Keeper of the HDT Resource Guide Link to Top of Page 1 Link to Top of Page 2 That is All THE END ____________________________________________________________________________
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