Kirk W

Vehicle Administrative Services https://www.vehicleadminservices.com/ Saferide Motor Club http://saferide.vehicleadminservices.com/

Have you already chosen a place to make your domicile and set up mail service? Even if you have, it may serve better to consider a change. This can be a pretty emotional issue for some folks but you need to remain objective and above the fray. Health insurance has long been a major factor for those who need it but the recent change have made things much more difficult fo those of us who fall outside of what is considered to be the nion orm. The RV community is such a small part of the country's population that we tend to fall through the cracks.

Welcome to the Escapees RV Club open forums.Like Linda, I'm a bit concerned about your plan. It would help some if we knew a bit more about you and your family. I can tell you that for a family to live in a small RV you will need to rent space in an RV park where it will then be connected to utilities. When traveling RVs operate from a fresh water tank and all waste goes into tanks which must be emptied into a proper facility found in RV parks and some truck stops. The size of these tanks in small RVs is usually quite limited so with multiple people living in a small travel trailer, this will need to be done very frequently. In addition to paying for the RV park, if you are paying monthly they will also charge you for electricity and you will need to buy propane for heating and cooking. With a budget of $6000, you will be looking at RVs that are not only small, but also 10 or more years old so you need someone to make sure that everything works before you buy, or it could rv, which means a larger, more powerful one.turn into a disaster. And remember that you will also need to have a proper vehicle that is capable of towing the RV. As I look through campground guides for that area, monthly rates seem to fall between $500 & $800 per month.

Best wishes in your shopping! Let us know how it goes and what you find.

In my experience, it sounds like your water heater is not sensing the flame after the propane lights. Your description of the symptom fits that exactly. In most cases the fix is to replace the ignitor probe. They usually cost about $20 +/-. A brief explanation of what happens is that the same probe that supplies the spark is then monitored by the circuit board for a very small voltage that will be returned to the circuit board when the flame contacts the probe if all is working properly. The voltage is so small (measured in micro-volts) that most of us do not own a meter that can detect it, but it is there. Several things can prevent that voltage from being detected. It is possible that it is just a poor connection and that if you clean the contact where the probe attaches to the circuit board well, it may work again, at least for a while. Another thing that sometimes causes the voltage to not be detected is for the ceramic insulator of the probe to have a tiny crack that is filled with carbon and shorts out that voltage, or it may have failed and no longer supply that return voltage. Whatever you do, do no use a small wie o clean the gas jet because it will probably be damaged by doing so. If that jet looks dirty clean it with alcohol and do not use anything that is abrasive on it.

I would suggest that he talk with the HR people at work first. There are many people who rent places that include utilities and so have no such bills. It might be that he could use a receipt from the RV park.

That is an issue that most of us here don't give much thought to as the vast majority of regulars here on these forums are well past the age of starting families. It is refreshing having you with us here! You may want to check out the X-scapers over on Facebook as well since they are a much younger crowd, but please do continue to post here also.

I would also look for a bank that has deposits by phone app. Some banks also will refund any ATM fees if you use another bank's ATM for some reason. Wells-Fargo is one of several that do this.

If you are forgetful like me you should probably note the fact that the plug is disconnected somewhere just to remind you in case you should ever want to use the furnace. 😔

Welcome to the Escapee open forums! The only way to access the interior of a Suburban furnace from that time period is to remove it from the RV/ Be sure that you turn off the propane and I would use the cook stove to burn off as much of the propane as possible with the supply turned off before disconnecting the gas line. Make sure that the gas doesn't get turned back on while your furnace is removed. It is always a good safety practice to either tag the supply valve or put a cap on the furnace supply line. If you visit Bryant RV Service you can download a copy of the Suburban service manual to help with disassembly.

Remove the fuse that supplies power to the furnace? If that isn't practical you could also lift the 12V lead from the terminal block where it connects, usually found inside of the rear access panel for the furnace.

First of all, the anode is there (if you have a Suburban water heater as Atwood doesn't use one) has nothing at all to do with the electrical operation of the water heater. They should be replaced annually but that is to extend the life of the water heater's tank, by preventing galvanic corrosion. As to needing a new solenoid, I have no idea what you are thinking of unless you mean the propane supply valve and in many years of working with RV water heaters, I can only remember replacing 2 of them so that is not a common problem. What I do not see in your post is an indication if you have used a volt/ohm meter to verify that there is 12V-dc electric power to the water heater? That sounds like a strong possibility of being your problem. If the ignition probe never sparks then it isn't possible to get any heating so that is the first thing to see why it don't happen. The spark probes do fail and are one of the more common items to need replacement, but if you don't have 12V then nothing will ever work, not even a new water heater. That problem could well be something as simple as a fuse in the supply to the water heater. In my experience as a service technician, randomly changing parts is a very expensive way to troubleshoot and it usually isn't successful. You need to start by verifying that you have a 12V supply (somewhere between 11V & 14V) and then if you do not have one, get a copy of the service manual for the water heater that you have from Bryant RV Service, where you can download a copy. If you were to give us more information, starting with the make and model of the water heater in question and verify that yours is getting 12V power, we may be able to give you some help.

Are you planning to come to Rock Springs, WY and Escapade next June? It will help you a great deal and you may want to consider also attending RVer's Boot Camp.

You may find this article on Investopedia to be helpful. 10 Steps to Becoming a Day Trader

I haven't done that but see no reason that you can't do so. I would not use wood because even treated wood is likely to degrade over time. I think that I would prefer to use aluminum at least for the framework to support everything. I might look into the issue of dissimilar metals before doing this, if you know someone with metallurgy knowledge. Do you have access to any of the structural members that support the existing storage bays? If so you may want to study them and how they are assembled.

This basically agrees with what Barb (an organic chemistry professor) has said and it agrees with what I have experienced as well. I have years of experience of owning a septic system, and most recently of being very involved in the operation of 10 septic systems belonging to a 65 home co-operative community, where I served as a director and also as corporation president. My maintenance director there holds a TX license as a septic system design engineer. The breakdown of materials in the waste tank is exactly the same as takes place in the early stages of a septic system, even though it doesn't normally stay in the tank long enough for the completion of that process. It is the very same bacteria that start the process when the bear poops in the woods that makes his disappear. If you visit a sewage processing facility, you will discover that aeration is a major part of how that is done. There are several products made for placement on the waste tank vent stacks whose purpose is to keep a slight vacuum in the waste tanks. The reports that I have seen indicate that they do work. Cyclone RV Sewer Vent Cap- Vac-U-Jet RV Roof Vent- solar powered RV Plumbing Vent Cap I have not personally used any of these.

Like most things in life, there isn't any single answer that fits all of us. I stopped doing my own investing back when we retired and went on the road. What works best and gets best results depends on my things, like the amount of money you are investing, what your goals are, how much of your time are you willing to put into your investing and a host of other issues. These forums have a lot of self proclaimed experts and several here regularly claim to make vastly better results than any professional, yet I never seem to see any of them traveling in the style that would indicate wealth?? Your questions make me suspect that you plan to be a day trader, which is something that is far beyond what most people here get involved in. I can only tell you what we did and our experience, then you make your choices. We very carefully researched financial managers and placed our investments with him. While our first experience was not all good, since we settled with our current manager we have done very well. We are past the age requiring "required minimum distribution" and have been for 5 years now and yet our investments continue to grow at a rate that exceeds our withdrawals, so we are happy with the result.

There is no specific list of things that make you a resident or that define domicile. The only time it is a problem is when or if someone should challenge your domicile claim. In such a case the more ties that you have to the location that you claim as domicile, the better. I suggest that you read The Issue of Domicile, written by Shawn Loring.

My bank refunds any ATM fees that I get charged while traveling. They have done that for a long time now.

I have been doing that for years and nearly everything is liquified and Barb indicated the same. There are many others of us who just let the natural process begin in our waste tanks and it does work.

Where in a septic system would you find DHMO or Hydric acid, if it has to have some?

I suspect that it is bad for a septic system too.

If you have fulltimer coverage that also has liability coverage similar to your homeowner's policy to cover visitors injured in your home and similar things normally covered by homeowners policies. Do you keep collision insurance on your vehicles? It is much the same way with them as with the RV.

It would seem that you are but that may be because you are not a member of the Escapees RV Club and so can not access the member links? But you can get there as a non-member if you use the direct link to RVER Insurance Exchange.

Like Barb, we only use generous amounts of water when we flush and no chemicals of any kind, but because I do know that there is often some residue left behind on the walls and sides of the waste tanks, I do like to do some preventive removal of that material and have found a pretty easy way of doing so. Once a month or so when traveling and just before we store our trailer for a period of not using it, we fill the tanks about half full of water and then add a generous amount of cold water laundry detergent, just before we will be traveling for several hours. I then dump the tanks as soon as we arrive at the end of that trip. I really doubt that there is any need for the cleaning but it does make us feel better. 😊 We stopped using waste tank chemicals more than 15 years ago while we were fulltime.