Kirk W

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Now that is a really creative approach. When it works you must have done it right!

Now you both get to suffer! ☺️ I don't think that sons are quite as bad. We do have a daughter-in-law who does that too but she prefers Pam for that most times and I approve. On rare occasion she selects me and I just deal with it those times.

You just go and buy another one. That is how it has always been but of course, now the price is $80.

It is not possible to give certain answers to the question of what you can operate at the same time with the limited amount of information given because not all appliances of the same type require the same amount of electricity. There are several things you need to know in order to understand what you are looking at. A 30a RV has a 3 pin power cord with one hot, one neutral, one ground pin. The 30a power is the most that you can ever draw between the hot and neutral pins and it is limited by a single circuit breaker. The ground pin is there for safety. In a 50a power plug there are 4 pins, 2 hot pins(L1 & L2), one neutral pin, and one ground. The main power circuit breaker for 50a is actually two 50a circuit breakers that are mechanically tied together and so the total available power with 2 hot and 1 neutral is now 100a, or more than three times as much as for the 30a plug. What you actually have is 2 different sections of power distribution that each can supply a maximum of 50a of power. The result is that in practical applications your 50a RV can actually be using at least 80a of power at one moment in time, while the 30a is limited to just that. Looking at your proposed RV, there is little likelihood that you would be able to run everything in the RV on 30a of power, but just how much you can operate depends on the requirements of each item. RV air conditioners typically use anywhere from 6a of power to as much as 13a of power once they are operating, with the amount required depending on the size of the air conditioner and its age. Newer air conditioners are much more efficient than older ones and so require less power. In addition, most likely the 2 air conditioners are not the same size as most RVs have a large one in the front for the living area and a smaller one for the bedroom. The other big load in any RV is the microwave and those also vary in power required. In general, a smaller one will need less power than a larger one. I would suggest that you ask them to plug the RV in and then run the air conditioners both at the same time. Once they are both operating, put a glass of water into the microwave and see if you can heat it up without shutting something off. My best guess would be that if this is a new or near new RV you can probably use both air conditioners at once, or 1 air conditioner and the microwave, but probably not all three at one time. If it has an electric mode for the water heater, that would be another item that might not work with two of the other loads. You can live comfortably with only 30a of power as many people do so but you will probably have to learn to manage that power use. I am wondering what engine your Adventurer is powered by? The Ford of that era was 310HP backed by a 5 speed transmission. The new engine has 320 HP with a 6 speed transmission. Since it also powers a smaller RV I would expect that it would do as well and probably better than your Adventurer did. It won't win any races, but why would you want to do so?

What make/model is the RV? Sitting can impact some things but I can't think of any reason sitting would account for the problem that you have. It seems that the lower circuit board isn't sensing the 120V, even when we know that it is there. The manual seems to be saying that it should detect power and change from gas even if the voltage applied is less than 100V, so it does appear to point to the board, which is difficult to believe. If you do get another lower board, before you do so check to see if there is one available from Dinosaur Electronics to fit your Refrigerator. I have found them to be superior to the OEM boards, cost less, and they have a better warranty. You can get them through this dealer. Did you happen to check the upper board per page 21 to be sure that the auto feature is actually turned on?

Yes, and the only extra cost to you is buying a new phone! ☺️

I would be sure to file a partial year income tax return with CA as soon as you get set-up as a TX resident to make it clear that you have broken ties to CA. The most common domicile issue is that of the previous state wanting to keep taxing you but the partial year return helps to avoid that problem. Also I want to give both Cheryl Mc and fpmtngal an early welcome to your first Escapade! Be sure to attend the special gathering for those who are "first timers" as it will help to orient you to what can be almost overwhelming the first visit. It also gives you an opportunity to meet others attending for the first time and many of those will be people who have been Escapees for a long time but never went to an Escapade. We were Escapees for about 10 years before we made our first one. Should you have any problems or questions, feel free to stop any member of the Security Team anywhere in the event center as we are there to help. I look forward to seeing you both in WY as I'll be one of those at the entry when you arrive.

The car will need it's own insurance policy and it could be either with the company that insures your RV or it could be with a different company. I have done it both ways, even when using the same insurance agent to write both policies. Any independent insurance agency can write coverage from more than one insurance company and they often do. If you like your current insurance agent, I'd suggest contacting him/her first but you may also want to get quotes from several agencies. If you should, here are several agencies that have good reputations in the RV community. AIS Agency RV Advantage Miller Insurance Agency Explorer RV Insurance

Interesting. Verizon seems to operate differently than the international standard which says that the roll-over on April 7, 2019? I did a Google search on the subject and found a long list of articles on the subject and the only one stating Nov. 3, 2019 is Verizon, while numerous other sources say it already happened on April 7, 2019. Naval Oceanography Portal All You Need to Know about the GPS / GNSS Week Number Rollover Garmin Support US Homeland Security

In case you do not have one the RM1350 service manual is available on the website of Bryant RV Service. In reading your first post again, it seems that the auto function will not select 120V mode? Page 16 of the linked manual gives some information and one of the items to check is that the resistance of the 120V heating element should be 34.3Ω. Have you tried using an extension cord to get 120V from another source outside of the RV and connect the 120V plug of the refrigerator to that, just to eliminate any problem in the RV120V supply? It may not prove much but it would eliminate any problem outside of the refrigerator. I would also trace the 120V through the lower circuit board, starting by checking for it between pins J5 & J6, then move to the 5A fuse and measure from neutral to each side of that fuse, which should show 120V to each side of it. I also like to use a jumper across the fuse holder in place of the fuse just as an alternate way to verify that it isn't causing a problem. The auto 120V detection is after the 5A fuse so if it should be a problem it will prevent the selection of 120V. Page 25 of the linked service manual shows a schematic of the refrigerator. Section 11 found on page 40 of the service manual is a set of diagnostics that may be helpful. I have no practical experience working on this model so reading the tests is the total of my knowledge of them. It seems highly unlikely that you would have 3 bad circuit boards and most suppliers will not allow you to return one so I'd go a long way before buying a fourth.

FMCA is associated with Safe Ride, the same service as Escapees. Coach Net was an endorsed company by Escapees but you were never able to buy their policy through Escapees, like we do with Safe Ride. I have been a Coach Net customer for about 10 years until 2011 when we dropped it because we were off of the road for health reasons for 2+ years. I picked it back up in 2014 and was a customer of Coach net until last March when I changed to Escapees/Saferide. If you follow the link in my previous post you will find that they are still in business today and available online.

I prefer Valterra products to those from Camco also, but used the picture from Camco because it was more clear. I also agree with using a brass check valve as they typically far outlast the PVC ones. On the pressure rise from the water expanding when heated, you will still get some of that on theTha hot water side even so. That rise should be somewhat lessened by keeping the proper air bubble in the top of the water heater. On ours I have a check valve on the outlet side of the water heater but installed an accumulator on the cold water side which not only lessens the operation of the water pump but it also minimizes the pressure rise from the water heater. In reading your post again, am I correct that you now have a check valve on both the inlet and the outlet side of the water heater? You must have one at the outlet to prevent the cold water from backing into the water heater when the bypass valve is turned.

If you mean that they are no longer on the Escapees endorsed products list, then you are correct. If you mean to say that Coach Net is no longer in business, then you are mistaken. The reason that I changed from Coach Net to Escapees Safe when renewal oBy f my Coach Net was increased from $120/year to $249/year. By changing to Escapees/Safe Ride I am paying $99/year.

We have never been charged by any store for getting cash back when using a debit card. We have been charged if doing so from an ATM belonging to a different bank but our bank reimburses those fees when they occur. Walmart has long been our main source of cash.

I don't know about the Journey, but most class A motorhomes have heat into all tank and plumbing areas supplied by the propane furnace? I suspect that all you need to do is keep the furnace running.

There are many here who have done what you plan in the past, but your best source of information will be to contact the Polk County office where you need to register your new vehicle. You can call them office at (936) 327-6801, or you can send an email to them if not in any rush. If you do this you can begin the process while on the phone and be sure that it is done right.

You may have a bad valve at the pump suction as I believe that it is designed to change the pump suction from the tank to your antifreeze jug? It could also be that if you have a potable water tank fill valve that fills the tank from the city water connection and that is open to fill the tank, it would also allow the pump to push antifreeze from your supply, through the fresh water system and past that open tank fill valve to the top of the fresh water tank. If that happens it would also use far more antifreeze than normal.

Since you haven't really had any answers to your question, I'll report what I know. I have had both Good Sam ERS and Coach Net in the past for more than 10 years each. In those years I did have a fuel delivery once & a jump start once from GS and then after changing to Coach Net had 1 winch-out and 1 tow to a shop from Coach Net. I also used the Coach Net technical advice by phone 1 time. I changed to Escapees/Safe Ride about a year ago, mostly due to the cost. Since Escapees linked with Safe Ride, I recall one report on the forums of some service not paid for (I can't remember the details) which was resolved after Escapee management got involved that was reported nearly a year before we changed to Escapee road service and following that (also before we changed) there was another thread on the subject where several reports were posted of satisfactory or better service. It was only then that I made the change but to date I have had no need to use the service at all. With the association having now existed for something over 2 years, one would think that there should be a few reports, but there doesn't seem to be, at least on these forums. When I analyze my road service experience, it could easily be that I may never actually use it so the lack of replies probably doesn't mean nobody here has gone to it, but only that they have not yet had to use it.

That is the range that your RV value falls into for either NADA or Blue Book. That is probably where the figure comes from. The part about rebates could be an effort to push you to act quickly, but remember that once the 2020 Keystone Fuzion line is at the dealers it will be considered to be 3 years old, rather then the 2 years it is now. When you consider how to price the things that you have added, you may find a way to get more than that for them but the best estimate would probably be to add in 1/2 of the purchase price to what you ask in selling it and be prepared to show a potential buyer the documentation to support what you paid for it. There are two common ways that consignment dealers typically charge the seller. Either you'll pay a flat percentage of the sale price, usually between 10 to 15%, or you and the dealer will both agree upon a target sale price, and the dealer will collect the extra as commission. It is difficult to guess whether you would be better to sell the two together or to separate but you could advertise them as available either way. If you do that you will need to state a price for each and probably a buyer would expect to pay somewhat less that the two added together if they buy both. How well you can expect to cover the total that you owe on each one by selling is very difficult to predict because so much depends on how much of each price you financed. If you paid the minimum down you may find it very difficult to recover as much as you might wish.

Exactly.

Exactly... What is stated on the tire is for the maximum load and is the pressure that should never be exceeded as it is the upper pressure limit for the tire's design.

While it used to be common for RV builders to have a check valve on the inlet side of the water heater, it is more common today for that valve to be on the outlet side, so you may have one there. When the RV comes with a water heater bypass kit they frequently use a 3 way valve to direct water into the tank or past it to the cold water line, such as this one shown in the picture, from Camco on Amazon. In this kit there is a brass check valve instructions tell you to install into the hot water outlet followed by the PVC tee that connects to the hot water lines and one end of the crossover line (white hose). The brass 3 way valve should go into the cold water inlet with the cold water supply connected to the entry fitting and the other end of the crossover to the 90° fitting. The last time that I used one of those kits it came with good instructions and images. It really doesn't matter which side of the water heater the check valve is in since the water must go into one side and out of the other, as long as the relief valve is closed and the tank drain plug is in place. If there is no check valve in either side it could very well be the reason for this. You should have a check valve in one side or the other just to be sure that your water heater tank will keep water in it if the cold water line should ever break with the water heater on. There are bypass kits available that use a diverter valve in each end of the line such as this one below which have no check valve. There are also RVs that come with a bypass kit of the type in the first picture and they also typically use a valve in the wet-bay area where other valves are located which looks similar to the one in this picture. The use of a check valve in the outlet of the water heater allows use on a single bypass valve.

If you have a TX license, then what is needed to get that added to your license does or at least that is what they used to add mine. What Is the REAL ID Act?