Kirk W

Yes.

.................. IF

A great deal depends on how that particular company measures. Most do give a total length somewhere in the specs if you dig deep enough, but not all. Many use a length that is measured inside of the RV and so doesn't include the tongue or bumper assembly.

Randy R, welcome to the Escapee forums. Your profile doesn't show that you have signed in at all since your first post, so if you are reading the forums, please be kind enough to sign back in and let us know.

Or one could also believe that a 2 year old RV was previously owned, as severl posts show. The article doesn't say but that would be a very unusual situation at most dealerships. Dealer agreements give only a limited period for sale before the dealership is required to start to pay at least interest. It may have changed in the years since I knew for sure, but I was friends with a dealership's general manager and that was true then.

The NPS does not add land or get rid of it. Congress is who keeps adding more land and locations to the NPS responsibility and they nearly always do so without any improvement in funding. Those studies are mandated by the same Congress via the environmental laws that they pass. Which would require an act of Congress. Sad but true and that same thing is true of many other agencies such as the USFWS who cares for our wildlife refuges, the COE parks managenemt, pretty much all park management agencies.

😊😁 Agreed.

Save that as you will need it to remove the temporary forwarding order.

As one who traveles in a 20' travel trailer, I don't agree with all of the comments up to now but I do agree that a 26' trailer should not cause significant problems in finding a site as long as you parctice backing to be able to put it into fairly tight spaces. While there are parks that have only limited spaces for a 26' trailer, that will be mostly in the ease as sites tend to be larger an more available in the west but even when we were in New England with our 36' motorhome it was more common to be a problem getting into sies with larger RVs that was the length of sites. If you travel to the west, you will have little problem finding sites that are easily accessable.

I think that I would use a butyl caulking as it should work and is more repairable than any silicone product.

I did replace one on our Cruise Master but I got the replacement from a dealer. You will probably have to make your own but it should be possible. Are you dry and in good shape now?

Looks like a good approach. Hope it all works out. I don't know if it has changed but the glue that they use was water soluable in the early days so a roof leak may have played a part in this.

They do not. You must have them somewhere on the internet for us to see them.

This makes me think that you would be wise to have your LP pressure checked to see if it is varying and causing that pulsing. You may have a pressure regulator problem.

You can probably get access to the space under the material from the front of the trailer and use something to spreat the glue back well under the material or you could cut the material and then repair the cut once it is glued back in place. You need to make sure that you use the proper glue to put it back and the same with the repari of any cut you make. I would not use live with that problem as it will likely get worse and in time tear away while traveling at highway speeds. The problem could be caused either by products that have been used on the roof or it may have gotten moisture between the membrane and the underlay. I would want to investigate the cuase of this problem as part of the repair.

I suspect that a lot of the life of any hose is partly in the way that it is cared for. It has been my observation that most of us do not make much effort to care for and preserve our fresh water hoses. We deploy them with little concern for protection for direct sun and harsh weather, and we put them away when cold & stiff in some sort of jumbelled mess since they don't roll up without first warming them. Eventualy I figured out that even a cheap hose would last far longer if it was treated better. I also found that I tended to be more careful with a hose that I had paid a higer price for. 😏

My experience is that I'd not reccommend any light weight RV for fulltime, but not that it can't be done, but rather that it will not hold up well. If you are willing to do enough maintenance and repairs, just about any RV can be used at least for a time, but I wouldn't want to do so. One of the main issues with the light weight RVs is that they have very little insulation and all metal is aluminum, a combination that makes them difficult to heat and cool. Most high quality materials are heavy, with thicker wood and less plywood or particle board. The maximum weight rating is the most it should ever tow, not what is sould tow all of the time. Most agree that you should keep the your RV's weight at 80% of the tow venicle's max rating.

We did that a lot with our first motorhome back when we still had jobs and even in our early days of fulltime. Eventually it became our practice to be stopped for the night by 3 pm so we used the method much less. Now that we have downsized to a small travel trailer, that is a feature that I miss.

A very important point! And the incident of ours with the shorted cell did give us the odor so I have always figured that it was making H²S.

There is one issue with satelliet TV which is the most reliable way for an RV to have a wide choice of TV programing in the US and that is that as you travel north the the ability to receive sattelite TV degrades due to the fact that all of the sattellites are located in GEO:- GEOSTIONARY EARTH ORBIT. That means that they are directly over the equator and traveling at a speed to stay in the same location, relative to our positions on earth. Because of the equatorial location, the farther north one travels the lower a dish elevation must be in order to receive the satellite signal and so you reach a point that trees, buildings ane even hills block the signal from the satellites to where you can't receive them. We traveled in Canada and northern US with a 36" dish, sattelite internet system using a tripod outside which I set up at each stop. Even with the large dish as we traveled farther north it became impossible to get internet and TV. (We received both from the same dish.) It may well be that this difficulty plays a part in the reluctance of your Canadian RV dealers to address it. The Nimiq satellites are a Canadian fleet of geostationary telecommunications satellites owned by Telesat and used by satellite television providers including Bell TV and EchoStar (Dish Network). Hopefully some of our Canadian members of the forum will join this discussion and comment on the availability to RV travelers in Canada as my experience was now more than 10 years ago.

It doesn't appear that you have been back to see what has been suggested, but if you are still reading this I suggest that you also consider the Wifi Ranger equipment.

Back when we were fulltme in the class A which the house batteries under the step, inside of the coach one battery developed a shorted cell and really did the rotten egg out-gas. That RV didn't use the combination CO/LP detectors but had the LP in the stair well and the CO was in the bedroom. The alarm that went off on ours was the LP, although it was also right next to the batteries, even though the battery box was vented out the bottom. I don't know that it would not have triggered the CO as well if allowed to continue, but I pulled off of the road and found the cause in a fairly short period of time and then isolated the defective battery and ventilated the RV. I used the one from MTI/SafeT Alert because there is a hole in the paneling that the original OEM combination was mounted in. Safe T Alert is not the same company(and costs more) as First Alert, which is commly found in department and home supply stores. Like RV I'm no fan of the First Alert units for RV use. I strongly suggest the Atwood CO detector because it is not only RV cirtified but it also has the digital display to tell you homw much it is sensing. It is normal for some small amount to be in all air but most alarms will trigger somewhere between 50 & 70 ppm according to what I recently read. Better sensors also consider the length of time a level has existed.The following comes from the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

That is what I have now also. And my LP decector is now this one from Amazon. The LP detector mounts into the same hole as the original combinaation sensor and the CO is now about 6" away from it.

You probably have a combination CO & LP detector as it is the LP side that can be triggered by battery outgassing. Hydrogen does not trip a detector for CO only. As an additional point, I have replaced the combination detector that came with our RV with one for LP and a separate one for CO which also shows the amount of CO. I did that because most of the combination CO/LP detectors alarm without any indication of which part is alarming. For some reason those have become pretty common in the RV industry and I suspect that it is because they are cheap, rather then working well.

Welcome to the forums! You may want to take a look at Shop4Seats or Discount Van Parts or any of many other suppliers of seats for those who customize vans. Just about any supplier of parts to customize vans or trucks will be able to get them for you and most will install them if need be.