Day cab semi conversion idea

[Troymx576]

9 hours ago, Star Dreamer said:

Here is our set up with the 48' trailer. We are right at 75' long. Don't forget to add space for trailer when turning.

That is a nice setup.  Do you have any issues being longer than 65’, or does that not matter in your state? 

[Vegas Teacher]

Troy,

Have you went on the facebook HDT forum, it is most of the same guys but also a lot of others who are more facebook oriented. I like facebook better to me it is easier to use and since I have it on my cell it is faster for me to check on.

[Star Dreamer]

7 hours ago, Troymx576 said:

That is a nice setup.  Do you have any issues being longer than 65’, or does that not matter in your state? 

We had not had any issues in the over 6 years we have had the  HDT except getting into some campgrounds. MN where we first lived had a 75' rule for RV's and SC where we are at now measures from pin to rear axle and not overall length. Have not had any issues in any state we are traveling in, mainly Midwest and southern States so far and as fall NE East as Pennsylvania.

[rickeieio]

Just know that length laws are not reciprocal.  Just like speed limits, the local (state) law is, well, the law.  What's legal at home won't fly on the open road.

That said, it's rare that anyone gets checked, but it has happened.

[alan0043]

On 2/25/2019 at 5:12 PM, Troymx576 said:

Is there a link on how to register it in va as an rv?  

Hi Troy,

There is two fellows that live in Virginia with hdt's. I hope they will see this post and answer some of your questions. 

Randy or Pat are you guys out there ?

Have you looked at racing junk for a truck ? It could be easier to find a truck already registered as a rv. That way you can have the title transferred to your state. These are just some ideas to think about. My first truck come from Delaware as a rv. I had the title transferred to my state with no problems.

Good luck and keep asking questions,
Al

[Troymx576]

I have been looking at racing junk and there is one close, just way more than my budget.  

 

I also think I might be able to go Volvo 760 and possobily keep it tandem dual axle rear.  I do not need a 5tg wheel hitch that takes up a lot of spacer after the rear axle and my trailer will be gooseneck ball, which gives me more room to work with.  I could move that up father forward than the 5th rv placement.  If I make the after wheels section as short as I can it could work.  My f350 has it over the axle and the rear of the truck extends like 3’, I will measure tonight, past that.  It could work and be a much simpler solution. It could also help resale value long term as you could modify that easy to put a smart car on it.  I will need to take measurements on it to stay within 65’. I was going to get a trailer fist and build around that, but will wait until I have the semi first. 

 

I now have watched hours of the rv haulers you tube videos of, all 29 steps, and have a much better idea of what is involved.  I can see where costs add up quickly, fluids $1000, driveshaft $1000, batteries $1000.  Tires at least $1000.  That number pops up a lot. 

 

I am keaning towards a pre dpt Volvo 670 with ishift for automatic now.  

 

Thanks for all the help guys. 

Troy 

[Moresmoke]

3 hours ago, Troymx576 said:

I am keaning towards a pre dpt Volvo 670 with ishift for automatic now.  

The Ishift was introduced in North America in 2007 with the first generation DPF equipped non DEF engines.  There were many issues with this round of emission controls. I would hope they have some of the issues fixed at this point, but it has made dent in their reputation.

The DEF equipped trucks came out in 2010. While not perfect by any means, they have been much better.

The tier 2 D12 Volvo engine has been a pretty reliable setup, but they were pre Ishift.

[Troymx576]

Do I want to avoid def year trucks?  How much cost doess it add while driving? I would think the extra complexity of the system might not be good.  

[jenandjon]

They had a lot of trouble the first few years of DEF. They got it figured out now. I personally did not go with a DEF truck (mostly because of budget) but I would not be afraid of one.

[GlennWest]

I shift will be DEF. UltraShift will be non DEF. Now the latest UltraShift will skip shift. Most won't. As much as I want an I Shift, I don't want early DEF. That is why I have an 06.

[Troymx576]

So what years should I look for? 2001-2006?

[Scrap]

98-02.  DS404's, 1710 drivelines, 7 series u-shift-it's, 15" cltches, EI front axles & kingpins, D-series 4S4M ABS, N14, no stability controls, no datalinks, no dash computers, no fairings, sheetmetal bumpers, steps, tanks.  Every day old truck stuff.  Feed it lower exhaust elbows, lower radiatior flanges, wheel seals, fix hood cracks and hope to not need injectors.  Theres only a $15K budget......

[Troymx576]

I also measured my f350. From the gooseneck ball, which is centered on my axle to my bumper is 53”, farther than I though.  I could come in this far or maybe be a little bit more based on the trailer specs.  I am not sure the diameter of a semi tire, but guess 4’ range. I might be able to mount the gooseneck ball in between the tandem axles.  

[Steve from SoCal]

3 hours ago, Troymx576 said:

I also measured my f350. From the gooseneck ball, which is centered on my axle to my bumper is 53”, farther than I though.  I could come in this far or maybe be a little bit more based on the trailer specs.  I am not sure the diameter of a semi tire, but guess 4’ range. I might be able to mount the gooseneck ball in between the tandem axles.  

The width of your truck is maybe 75-80" the back of a tractor either the mudflap hanger or fenders are about 95-98".     Plan on having enough swing clearance.      The pick up can close the gap because the rear corners are narrower, the 45* point is greater on a tractor, that is the pinch point.

 

Scrap's suggestion is fine, 2000 and older trucks are in a unique spot right now due to ELD mandate.    2000-2005 is pretty safe.     I would look at C12 or C13 small block trucks some of them are shorter by 6-10" and are lighter.     If you find a small block truck with a short nose and small sleeper they are under 15' from bumper to back of the cab.    If you want a clean look search for flat tops and mid roofs.      Star Dreamers truck is a mid roof.      

Steve  

[rickeieio]

Pardon me if I missed it earlier, but how many miles per year, or miles per trip, do plan on?  Reason I ask, a I have a CH series Mack , 2000 CH613, 370hp/10spd.  (Not for sale) Something like that might make a good starting point, but I wouldn't want to drive it long distances.

But again, sleepers of that vintage are cheaper.

[Troymx576]

Some more numbers.  Semi tire is about 44” tall. If I make the rear tire cover/ bumper about 4” past the rear tire and come in the 53” +/- it should be in the center of the two rear axles. This will work out good and can save me money on the single conversion. It can also make it so I just have add the gooseneck ball for costs.  I can add the rear decking later.  

 

This way I can spend my money and budget on getting the best truck I can. 

 

Also, from what I have read so far I can add a porta potty, 2000-3000 inventor for 110v and a microwave as it comes with a fridge and AC from the truck.  

 

[Troymx576]

6 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Pardon me if I missed it earlier, but how many miles per year, or miles per trip, do plan on?  Reason I ask, a I have a CH series Mack , 2000 CH613, 370hp/10spd.  (Not for sale) Something like that might make a good starting point, but I wouldn't want to drive it long distances.

But again, sleepers of that vintage are cheaper.

I will drive about 7-12k a year.  About 8-12 trips ranging from 3 hours to 16 hours. The longer trips I stop half way and sleep at a truck stop me as needed.  I also will sleep in cab over the weekends. 

[Troymx576]

37 minutes ago, Steve from SoCal said:

The width of your truck is maybe 75-80" the back of a tractor either the mudflap hanger or fenders are about 95-98".     Plan on having enough swing clearance.      The pick up can close the gap because the rear corners are narrower, the 45* point is greater on a tractor, that is the pinch point.

 

Scrap's suggestion is fine, 2000 and older trucks are in a unique spot right now due to ELD mandate.    2000-2005 is pretty safe.     I would look at C12 or C13 small block trucks some of them are shorter by 6-10" and are lighter.     If you find a small block truck with a short nose and small sleeper they are under 15' from bumper to back of the cab.    If you want a clean look search for flat tops and mid roofs.      Star Dreamers truck is a mid roof.      

Steve  

Good point on the length and all.  It might need to be moved back some based on trailer dimensions. It still can be farther forward than the very back.

[Troymx576]

After doing more research I see that insurance can be more tandem, toll booths, tires and brakes. 

 

Do people remove the forward axle and make the driveshaft longer?  I see people moving the rear axle forward.  I could put the hitch in about the same location I would with tandem.  A lot of pictures I see seem to have the axle in the stock location rear? 

 

Also, are there any other dyi links for going single? 

[GlennWest]

singled long can overload the front axle. singled short could do the opposite. They look best the original wheelbase. It's a balancing act.  

[Star Dreamer]

There are three approaches to singling each with their own issues.

Singling short is removing the front axle and moving the rear axle to the front location. For an RV 5th wheel hitch is located behind the rear axle and heavy pin weights can unload the front axle on the truck. Early HDT conversions were done this way to keep length of truck short similar to a dually.

Singling long is removing the front axle and making driveshaft longer. In some cases this can overload your front axle when not hooked up to the trailer and makes for a longer truck.

The 3rd way is to single mid. This is a newer concept and more expensive option and requires redrilling the frame and moving the rear axle to the mid position. This is becoming the choice of today but is more expensive than the other options.

Alot depends on if you want to haul anything on the bed of the truck and what the weights will be in final configuration.

Our truck is singled short.

Read up on Jack Mayer's website for better explanation of the pros and cons.

Dave

[Steve from SoCal]

Most tandem trucks have 54" axle spacing, a truck with a 230" WB has 203" wheelbase to the forward axle.    That is a good compromise between length and maneuverability if you don't plan on deck cargo.    The frame can be left in place or cut to your desired length,  generally the frame can be cut 4 feet.     So, a truck with a 15' bumper to back of cab and a 60" hitch placement behind the cab will yield a trailer capacity of up to 45' beyond the kingpin.      A lot of semi tractors that have 230-240" WB actually have a cab to rear axle distance of about 66" that is to the forward axle.

Leaving the truck tandem will add aprox 4 feet in length to the combination using a race/horse style trailer. 

Single axles in the forward position are not an issue for most RV  type including  race cars, the hitch weight is not that high.    Mounting the hitch a foot behind the axle is not uncommon and is no big deal like it is with a pick up.     Race trailers that are designed to be towed by pick ups like RV 5th wheels have little overhang and, the pin close to the front.     My Teton trailer can be hitched 45" ahead of the back of my truck.    The kingpin is almost exactly at the front of the trailer, the body on my truck is 90-91" wide.     My truck and Teton are just under 65', it is a 44' trailer.   With more overhang forward I could tow a 47' trailer.      A 48-54" sleeper instead of a 64" sleeper would allow me to tow a 48' trailer.   

Steve

        

[Troymx576]

2 hours ago, Steve from SoCal said:

Most tandem trucks have 54" axle spacing, a truck with a 230" WB has 203" wheelbase to the forward axle.    That is a good compromise between length and maneuverability if you don't plan on deck cargo.    The frame can be left in place or cut to your desired length,  generally the frame can be cut 4 feet.     So, a truck with a 15' bumper to back of cab and a 60" hitch placement behind the cab will yield a trailer capacity of up to 45' beyond the kingpin.      A lot of semi tractors that have 230-240" WB actually have a cab to rear axle distance of about 66" that is to the forward axle.

Leaving the truck tandem will add aprox 4 feet in length to the combination using a race/horse style trailer. 

Single axles in the forward position are not an issue for most RV  type including  race cars, the hitch weight is not that high.    Mounting the hitch a foot behind the axle is not uncommon and is no big deal like it is with a pick up.     Race trailers that are designed to be towed by pick ups like RV 5th wheels have little overhang and, the pin close to the front.     My Teton trailer can be hitched 45" ahead of the back of my truck.    The kingpin is almost exactly at the front of the trailer, the body on my truck is 90-91" wide.     My truck and Teton are just under 65', it is a 44' trailer.   With more overhang forward I could tow a 47' trailer.      A 48-54" sleeper instead of a 64" sleeper would allow me to tow a 48' trailer.   

Steve

        

Great info.  I am looking at a 44’ stacker trailer.  So if I stay just under 65’ I am happy.  I plan on the shorter cab Volvo 670 now. I could just use the front axle location and cut the rear off if needed. 

 

Now if I could keep it tandem and still be under 65’ with my 44’ trailer that could be ideal.  I just need to make sure my hitch location will clear the trailer when at 90 degrees so it does not hit as stated above.  So I need under 21’ from the front bumper to the center of my gooseneck hitch. I do not have a truck to measure here so I am guessing at numbers. But based on the numbers it might be enough room to mount it right in between the tandem axles and fit the trailer.  That can make it easier. 

[SuiteSuccess]

Troy,

If you haven’t seen this from the resource guide it will help explain a lot of your questions.

http://www.hdtrally.com/Presentations/2008_bedbuild.ppt

[Troymx576]

5 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Troy,

If you haven’t seen this from the resource guide it will help explain a lot of your questions.

http://www.hdtrally.com/Presentations/2008_bedbuild.ppt

Thank you, I will review.