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Diesel Treatment


mike5511

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Who uses a diesel treatment and which one? Particularly interested in those with the older, pre-USLD motors. I've been using Power Service in the silver bottle. Just wondering if there is something better. Got to take care of these older trucks! (1998 Cummins M11).

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Only thing I use is Power Services Biokleen to control bacterial and fungal growth.  Remember the “slime” is both components not just fungal.

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4 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Only thing I use is Power Services Biokleen to control bacterial and fungal growth.  Remember the “slime” is both components not just fungal.

I've used several different biocides. It appears a lubricity additive isn't needed if the fuel has at least 2% bio fuel in it. I read somewhere where about all diesel now has up to 5% blend of bio fuel. They are supposed to tell you on the pump if the bio blend is over 5%.  My old motor needs it! I'm not too worried about the additional cetane additive. I've been using the Power Service in the silver bottle. I'm wondering about changing things up when my current supply of Power Service runs out.

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Stanadyne Performance formula. Used it for years in way pre emission and new def/scr engines with great luck.

 I ran out so decided to give Hotshot a try. Jury is still out.

 We use a lot of Lucas additive as well on the farm with I guess good luck or just no changes but no failures that can be traced to no lubricity.

 I'm not a big fan of biodiesel lubricity, but that's just me. I still want something to clean the crud that biodiesel leaves out.

 Lot's of Pittsburg power users that tell convincing stories. I'm up for giving it a try when I finish my Hotshot trial.

I'm a work'n on it.

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First treatment in our used Volvo was 8 OZ in each tank of Bio Kleen to treat any bacteria and fungus. There was no evidence of any growth, but not knowing the history of fuel types previously used I wanted to treat the tanks and systems proactively. 

I also use the opti lube  summer lube + Cetane  . Ran it in the power stroke for 8 years no issues, now using in the D13, 8 OZ per fill up of fuel, 150 gallons thereabouts .   A 1 gallon jug is about $75 delivered and and that will do 16 fuel ups. Got the hand pump that goes on top the jug and a couple of 8 OZ empty bottles, I pre fill the bottles so its easy just to dump the pre measured amount into the tank at fuel up

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21 hours ago, Morelli said:

I'm seeing a lot of positive reviews on the Hot Shot products. I've used Opti-Lube 2 cycle oil in all my small engines for years without any issues. Sit all winter and fire right up in the spring and run forever. I got to believe their products are equal to any, so I'm looking at them too. I've always used Power Service products and was surprised at their reviews and ratings compared to Hot Shot and Opti-Lube. Just trying to figure out the best thing to do for my old 1998 Cummins.

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On 7/13/2024 at 8:20 AM, justRich said:

This lubricity study by (copyrighted by Alan Spicer The Diesel Place.com) was introduced in 2007.
The PDF study is here: https://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf

 

That study is 15 years old. Is there a more recent study? A lot of new products since 2007.

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11 hours ago, Larry and Robin said:

That study is 15 years old. Is there a more recent study? A lot of new products since 2007.

That question has been asked on other forums and to my knowledge, there is no newer independent study since that time that I have found.
The study is helpful but it is only "one" study - which doesn't make it conclusive.

 

 

Edited by justRich

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~Rich

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For every study, there is an equal, but opposite, conclusion.  Always look at who funded the study in question.

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Ya'all might find the results of this HFRR testing of diesel fuel lubricity additives informative:

https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/lubricity-additive-study-results.177728/

 

Note that every product below #14 performed worse than the baseline fuel.

Edited by Ray,IN

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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Thanks Ray.  Though that study is a bit over 17 y/o, it still gives  us some comparative numbers.  Soybeans to the rescue!!!!!

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
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Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
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No one has mentioned Pittsburgh Power Max Mileage which is a catalyst one gallon cost $230.00. Now this product is carefully measured into the fuel at each fill up roughly 125 gallons needs 5 ounces.  Comes out to about .50 cents per OZ.  I have used this for at least 3 years in my Ford PSD and 2006 Volvo no def.  Benefit's: 

Cleans fuel system

Cleans cups

Fuel Rails

Reduces # of regens

Cleans soot from top end and exhaust system

Improved fuel mpg

Reduced downtime

Motor runs quieter

EGR runs much cleaner

This product has only been out for 5 years +/- I have been getting good results in both truck’s.  In cold areas Denver I still use anti gel in the mountains.  If you have a late model truck that is doing many regen’s you might give this a try. Learn more on Let’s Truck with Kevin Rutherford or the Power Hour.

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Thanks for posting the study Rich and Ray.

I had seen that about 10 years ago and it's what convinced me to run the Opti Lube summer + additive, as it seemed to be the most cost effective bang for your buck multi purpose solution

Edited by palmeris
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7 hours ago, palmeris said:

Thanks for posting the study Rich and Ray.

I had seen that about 10 years ago and it's what convinced me to run the Opti Lube summer + additive, as it seemed to be the most cost effective bang for your buck multi purpose solution

Actually the study proves B2 diesel fuel is the best and least expensive lubricity additive, 2% biodiesel.  Although my 1999 ISC engine gets less mileage burning B20, the engine is much quieter listening from the driver seat.

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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8 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

Actually the study proves B2 diesel fuel is the best and least expensive lubricity additive, 2% biodiesel.  Although my 1999 ISC engine gets less mileage burning B20, the engine is much quieter listening from the driver seat.

Thus my "soybeans to the rescue" crack.  Seriously, if all you are looking for is better lubricity, carrying a few jugs of B20 would be a very good solution.  

Hmmmm. I've been toying with making up a 40-50 gal. auxiliary tank.  Fill it with B20 and at every fill, just crack the valve and let a few gal. join the party.

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Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio@yahoo.com

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A "Trucker" I know swears by a quart of 30wt non detergent motor oil to certain amount of diesel he get's delivered to his 1000 gallon tank at home is what he uses. He also brags about running in the triple digits most of the time when on the road. 

I use Howes for some reason add a bottle with almost every fill if I've run it below 1/4 on the gauge. Need to pick up some more. Saw it at $13 a bottle at a Theisen's a couple days ago, but was on a mission and didn't ask if they had a case in a box. 

 

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2001 Volvo D12.  I use Howes or Hotshots normally.  Howe's is at more truck stops.  With that being said, the Howe's winter anti gel left me froze up when the temp dropped below zero. I'm relatively sure I had the amount they called for in the tank, so will be using something else next winter.

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On 7/19/2024 at 5:19 PM, Ray,IN said:

Actually the study proves B2 diesel fuel is the best and least expensive lubricity additive, 2% biodiesel.  Although my 1999 ISC engine gets less mileage burning B20, the engine is much quieter listening from the driver seat.

 I wouldnt consider B20 an additive, rather it's a primary fuel that I have avoided using due to potential Microbial contamination including bacteria and fungus which then requires a biocide additive to be used to control it.   The biocide is a much more expensive additive

I think the Microbial growth is exasperated by storage time and may not present itself if constantly being circulated by use and replenishment , but that doesnt fit our mission profile and I want to do everything within reason to avoid microbial growth in all our diesel tanks.

Now who knows what I'm actually getting out of the pump nozzle these days, yet another reason to treat with the previously listed additives proactively for piece of mind if nothing else. 

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15 hours ago, palmeris said:

 I wouldnt consider B20 an additive, rather it's a primary fuel that I have avoided using due to potential Microbial contamination including bacteria and fungus which then requires a biocide additive to be used to control it.   The biocide is a much more expensive additive

I think the Microbial growth is exasperated by storage time and may not present itself if constantly being circulated by use and replenishment , but that doesnt fit our mission profile and I want to do everything within reason to avoid microbial growth in all our diesel tanks.

Now who knows what I'm actually getting out of the pump nozzle these days, yet another reason to treat with the previously listed additives proactively for piece of mind if nothing else. 

It is added to replace the lost lubricity during the refining process that removes sulfur from diesel fuel, thus it is an additive. Anything above B2 is  considered biodiesel. I"ve burned as high as B20 diesel fuel, it runs great, but with a mileage loss. There used to be a filling station on I70 about 60 West of St. Louis that sold B100, I chickened out and didn't fill up there.

I've never had a problem with biodiesel as far as the tank and fuel system; but I have had to replace the OEM fuel distributor and lift pump in the past 24 years. Cummins said the old gaskets were not designed for biofuel.

The only thing I do to prevent microbial growth is keep fuel tank full when MH is stored, and never buy fuel at small low volume stations. I do that by patronizing truck stops instead of small stations.

You  cannot buy diesel fuel without at least B2 - 2% biofuel. If you're told a stations fuel does not contain any biofuel, ask what lubricity additive is in their fuel, because without a lubricity additive your engine is burning the fuel at the bottom of that list.

Edited by Ray,IN

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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